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Flooring Calculator
Get exact material quantities, a full cost breakdown, and time estimate — including underlayment, transitions, and subfloor prep.
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How Much Flooring Do You Need?
The standard rule is to order 10% more flooring than your measured square footage to account for cuts, waste, and mistakes. If you're laying diagonal or in a herringbone pattern, bump that to 15–20% — the angled cuts create significantly more offcuts. This calculator adds the waste factor automatically.
For click-lock flooring (LVP, laminate, hardwood), material comes in boxes that typically cover 20 sq ft each. A 500 sq ft room with 10% waste needs 550 sq ft of coverage — about 28 boxes.
LVP vs Laminate vs Hardwood vs Tile: Which Should You Choose?
LVP (Luxury Vinyl Plank) is the most popular choice right now for good reason — it's 100% waterproof, comfortable underfoot, and installs fast with click-lock planks. Best for bathrooms, kitchens, basements, and any moisture-prone area. Budget $2–$6/sqft for material.
Laminate gives you a convincing wood look at the lowest price point but is not waterproof — keep it away from bathrooms and basements. Budget $1–$3.50/sqft.
Hardwood adds the most home value and can be refinished multiple times. It requires acclimation (leave the wood in the room for 3–5 days before installing), and it doesn't belong in wet areas. Budget $4–$10/sqft.
Tile is the most durable and truly waterproof, but it's the most labor-intensive to install. A wet saw rental (~$40/day) is almost always necessary. Budget $1–$5/sqft for material plus $20–$25 in mortar and grout per 100 sq ft.
What Is Underlayment and Do I Need It?
Underlayment goes between your subfloor and the new flooring. It serves three purposes: cushioning (more comfortable to walk on), sound reduction (especially important in multi-story homes), and moisture protection (critical over concrete slabs). LVP sometimes has underlayment pre-attached — check your product specs. Laminate and hardwood almost always need a separate layer. Tile does not use traditional underlayment.
Frequently Asked Questions
Do I need a saw to install click-lock flooring?
Yes for the final row cuts and any cuts around door frames. LVP can be scored and snapped with a utility knife for straight cuts, but a miter saw or circular saw makes the job much faster. For laminate and hardwood, a saw is practically required. Tile always needs a wet saw — they rent for about $40/day at home improvement stores.
What is an expansion gap and why does it matter?
All floating floors (LVP, laminate, hardwood) expand and contract with temperature and humidity. You must leave a 1/4" gap between the flooring and every wall, door frame, and fixed object. This gap gets hidden by quarter round or base shoe molding. Skipping it causes buckling — the floor has nowhere to expand and pushes up from the center.
How flat does my subfloor need to be?
Industry standard is 3/16" variance over 10 feet. Any dip or hump larger than that needs to be corrected before installation. For concrete subfloors, use self-leveling compound. For wood subfloors, use a floor leveler or scrape/plane high spots. This is especially critical for tile — hollow spots under tile cause cracking over time.
Can I install new flooring over old flooring?
Sometimes. LVP and laminate can go over existing vinyl or hardwood if it's flat, firmly bonded, and doesn't raise your floor height too much (check door clearances). You cannot install tile over existing vinyl. Hardwood should never go over existing flooring. When in doubt, remove the old flooring — it prevents problems and gives you a known flat surface.
How long does flooring installation take?
A first-time DIYer can install LVP at roughly 80–100 sq ft per hour once the subfloor is ready. A 500 sq ft area takes about a full day including layout, installation, and transitions. Tile is significantly slower — plan on 20–30 sq ft per hour for setting, then a full day of drying before you can grout, then another few hours for grouting.
Is underlayment noise reduction worth it?
If you live in a multi-story home or apartment, yes — absolutely. Acoustic underlayment (2mm–3mm foam + rubber blend) reduces impact noise transmission significantly. Standard thin foam provides cushioning but minimal sound reduction. If noise is a concern, budget for the thicker acoustic version (~$0.40/sqft vs. $0.20/sqft for basic foam).