A TV console or media cabinet is one of the most useful pieces of furniture you can build, and it is an excellent intermediate project because it combines several skills: plywood case construction, door making, and hardware installation. Getting the dimensions right for your specific TV and room is the key design step — the actual construction is straightforward.

This guide builds a 72-inch-wide media console with two door bays (for components, game consoles, and cable management) and an open center section for a receiver or streaming device. Height is 24 inches — low enough that a 65-inch TV mounted above it sits at an ideal viewing angle.

What You Need

Tools

  • Table saw or circular saw with guide
  • Miter saw
  • Drill and pocket hole jig
  • Random orbital sander
  • Level and tape measure
  • Hinge jig (optional)

Materials

  • 3/4-inch cabinet-grade plywood — 3 sheets
  • 1/4-inch plywood for back panel
  • 1×3 poplar for face frame
  • European-style cup hinges (2 per door)
  • Cabinet pulls or knobs
  • Pocket screws (1-1/4 and 2 inch)
  • Adjustable shelf pins and shelves
  • Primer and paint or stain and polyurethane

Steps

Step 1: Plan the Compartment Layout

Sketch the console elevation view. A 72-inch console with two 24-inch door bays on the outside and a 24-inch open center section works for most entertainment setups. The two door bays need to be at least 18 inches deep to fit a modern AV receiver. Plan cable management holes (3-inch diameter grommets) in the back panel and side panels between compartments before building.

Step 2: Cut the Case Panels

Cut the two end panels, top, bottom, and center dividers from 3/4-inch plywood. All horizontal pieces should be 1-1/2 inches shorter than the total interior width they span (accounting for the vertical dividers on each side). Cut the back panel from 1/4-inch plywood to the full exterior dimensions. Label every piece with its position before assembly.

Step 3: Assemble the Case

Assemble the case on a flat surface with pocket holes and glue. Attach the bottom panel to both end panels first, then add the top panel. Insert and fasten the two center dividers. Slide the back panel into place last — apply glue to all edges and nail the back panel to square the entire case. A square case is essential for doors to close evenly.

Step 4: Attach the Face Frame

The face frame from 1×3 poplar covers all plywood edges on the front. Cut stiles (vertical pieces) and rails (horizontal pieces) and assemble with pocket holes. Glue and nail the face frame to the front of the case, keeping stiles flush with the inside edges of openings and extending 3/8 inch past the outside edges. Fill all nail holes before finishing.

Step 5: Build and Hang the Doors

Cut door panels from 3/4-inch plywood, sized to overlap the face frame opening by 1/2 inch on all sides (full-overlay doors). Veneer the front face with iron-on edge banding on all four edges. Install European cup hinges — these are adjustable in three directions and are the easiest way to hang a perfectly aligned cabinet door. Use a hinge jig for consistent hole placement. Hang the doors and adjust the hinge screws until each door closes flush and level.

Step 6: Install Shelves and Hardware

Drill shelf pin holes inside each door bay for adjustable shelves. Drill cable management holes in the back panel aligned between compartments. Install grommets in the holes for a finished appearance. Add pulls or knobs to the doors. A cable management spine (a vertical strip with Velcro on both sides) inside one bay keeps AV cables organized.

Step 7: Add a Toe Kick

A toe kick — a recessed base 3-1/2 inches tall by 3 inches deep — makes the console look like furniture rather than a box. Cut the toe kick pieces from 1×4 material and nail them to the base of the case. Set the toe kick back from the face frame by 3 inches, creating the shadow reveal that visually lightens the piece.

Step 8: Finish

Apply two coats of primer and two coats of semi-gloss paint for a contemporary look, or stain and polyurethane for a natural wood finish. Semi-gloss is practical for a media console — it cleans up fingerprints from door handles easily. Apply finish to all interior surfaces of the door bays as well, which gives a more polished appearance when doors are open.

Pro Tips

  • Wire mesh or perforated metal inserts in the door panels (instead of solid plywood) allow heat from electronics to escape while hiding the interior — heat buildup shortens the life of AV components significantly.
  • Plan ventilation: leave at least 2 inches above any electronic component and drill 2-inch ventilation holes in the case back behind each component location.
  • Use soft-close hinge dampers on all European hinges — the sound of cabinet doors slamming is amplified when the TV is off and very noticeable in a quiet living room.
  • Build the console 2 inches wider than you think you need — component collections always grow after the console is built.

FAQ

What height should a TV console be?

The ideal viewing height places the center of the TV screen at seated eye level — approximately 42 inches from the floor for most adults seated on a standard sofa. For a 65-inch TV (which has a screen height of roughly 32 inches), the bottom of the TV should sit at 26 inches — meaning the console top should be 24-26 inches. Wall-mounted TVs eliminate this constraint entirely.

How do I manage all the cables?

Cable management starts at the design stage: plan a single large opening (or a series of grommeted holes) connecting all compartments to each other and to a central point where the power strip lives. Route all power and signal cables through these holes during assembly, before the TV is placed. A wireless HDMI extender eliminates the cable run between TV and source components entirely if you are willing to invest in the technology.

Can I build this to float on the wall?

A floating wall-mounted media console is a more advanced variation. The case itself is the same construction, but it mounts to a French cleat (a pair of interlocking 45-degree strips) fastened to the wall into studs. The console must be lighter than a floor-standing version — use 1/2-inch plywood instead of 3/4 and eliminate the toe kick. French cleats hold 200+ lbs per stud pair when properly installed.